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Italian wine labels explained

Italian wine labels explained

You most likely have read one of my “wine label lessons” when reading this column. Wine labels, especially those in other languages, can be quite confusing until you know what they mean.

Many consumers shy away from bottles with appellation information simply because these labels can be difficult to understand. Easy to understand equals safe to buy for many shoppers. But what if you knew just enough more to not be intimated by these labels?

Over the next several months, let’s review some of the most extraordinary wines in the world that are possibly being ignored because of a lack of consumer confidence.

Here is your confidence lesson for Italian labels (“homework” included).

We can start with all the confusing letters; DOCG, DOC, IGT, VdT. That’s a lot of letters to muddle through in understanding Italian wines. It’s much simpler if you start by thinking of these as a guide to quality but realize one category includes exemptions.

DOCG

DOCG, which stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita is the highest tier for Italian classifications. It has the most restrictive quality controls for production including low yields, longer barrel aging and strict geographical boundaries. There are 77 DOCGs across Italy. All wines labeled DOCG undergo testing by a government-approved panel.

DOC

DOC, short for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, make up the bulk of Italian wines. These wines, while numerous, are still strictly regulated. Some rules are the same as DOCG with geographical boundaries, production and winemaking rules. There are about 330 DOCs in Italy.

IGT

At one time Indicazione Geografica Tipica was just another tier in the quality levels of Italian labels, just above basic table wines (Vino da Tavalo or VdT) and just under the DOC. But today this tier isn’t as straightforward as that. As the name implies, this tier includes “wines that are typical of a region,” but it also includes not-so-typical wines. In the 1960s a group of producers began experimenting with nonindigenous grapes such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot. These grapes were not permitted in upper-tier wines, but they were allowed in wines labeled “table wine.” These wines were exceptionally produced bottles, but were forced to be considered the lower end of the quality tier.

These wines were known as “Super Tuscans” and today can be labeled under the IGT. This is the reasoning behind the diverse range in prices you will find in this category.

This week’s recommendations span the three tiers and include a very rare and pricey curveball IGT in the lineup.

DOCG

THE VALUE

2018 Da Vinci Chianti DOCG, Italy (about $12)

THE SPLURGE

2018 La Spinetta Vigneto Bordini, Barbaresco DOCG, Italy (about $65)

DOC

THE VALUE

2018 La Gioiosa Prosecco DOC, Italy (about $11)

THE SPLURGE

2018 Palazzo Maffei Valpolicella DOC, Italy ($19)

IGT

THE VALUE

2018 Castello Del Poggio IGT Moscato, Italy (about $14)

THE SPLURGE

2005 Villa Antinori Solaia, Italy (about $300)

Results of tough wine-pasta trials

Wine & PastaI think we all assume pasta and wine are a straightforward pairing. Pick an Italian wine and the match should work. Over the past few weeks I have experimented with different pasta and wine combinations. It was arduous work but somebody had to do it.

The experiments reinforced one basic rule: It doesn’t matter if the pasta is long, short, a tube or spiral … it’s the sauce and filling that counts.

Pasta served with meatballs and meat-based sauces such as bolognese pair best with reds such as zinfandel, sangiovese, merlot, shiraz, syrah.

THE VALUE

  • 2009 Cline Cellars Sonoma County Syrah, California (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Ridge Vineyards Ponza Zinfandel, California (about $30 retail)

Dishes such as spinach lasagna, ricotta-stuffed manicotti or stuffed mushrooms partner well with chardonnay, Soave, pinot noir.

THE VALUE

  • 2010 Mark West Central Coast Pinot Noir, California (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2009 Rex Hill Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Oregon (about $25 retail)

When it comes to seafood pasta dishes, whether crab, mussels, shrimp or lobster, white wine such as chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, albarino or pinot grigio is the way to go.

THE VALUE

  • 2010 La Cana Albarino, Spain (about $17 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2010 Keenan Napa Valley Chardonnay, California (about $25 retail)

For creamy sauces, safe bets include chardonnay or Soave.

THE VALUE

  • 2011 Kendall Jackson Avant Chardonnay, California (about $13 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2010 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay, California (about $31 retail)

Pinot grigio, Orvieto, sauvignon blanc and albarino are good options for cold pasta salads.

THE VALUE

  • 2011 Ruffino Orvieto, Italy (about $10 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2011 A to Z Pinot Gris, Oregon (about $17 retail)

Pesto can vary from the familiar blend of basil and pine nuts to more unusual combinations like sun-dried tomato or roasted red peppers and walnuts. Consider sangiovese, merlot or chardonnay for complementary wines.

THE VALUE

  • 2010 Michel Lynch Merlot, France (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Bell Vineyards Yountville Merlot, California (about $34 retail)