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Gone is the day when the biggest cookout dilemma was whether to serve burgers or brats.

Today, in addition to the charcoal versus gas argument, grilling experts and food writers are busily advising on all of your grilling needs — from basting brushes and smoker boxes to grill size and all of the tasty and unique foods that can be prepared on the grill.

Modern grilling has moved way beyond the basic burger to include such dishes as Chinese-style ribs with guava sauce, lime-marinated mahi-mahi and even pizza.

But no matter if it’s the humble hamburger or an exotic fish dish, one beverage always goes great with grilled food: wine.

Steak

THE VALUE

  • 2006 Jacob’s Creek Shiraz, Australia (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 St. Francis “Old Vine” Zinfandel, California (about $27 retail)

Hamburgers

THE VALUE

  • 2006 Cellar No. 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2008 Cline Cellars Cool Climate Syrah, California (about $20 retail)

Chicken

THE VALUE

  • 2007 Greg Norman Estates Pinot Noir, California (about $15 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2007 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay, California (about $22 retail)

Pizza

THE VALUE

  • 2007 Concannon Pinot Noir, California (about $13, retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2007 Turkey Flat Vineyards Rose, Australia (about $18, retail)

Barbecued Ribs

THE VALUE

  • 2006 Cline Cellars Zinfandel, California (about $12 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 Gordon Brothers Syrah, Washington (about $22 retail)

Seafood

THE VALUE

  • 2007 Montes Classic Series Chardonnay, Chile (about $13 retail)

THE SPLURGE

  • 2006 Bennett Family Russian River Chardonnay, California (about $25 retail)