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In the past, Spanish wines — with the exceptions of Rioja, and sherries from Jerez de la Frontera — were usually found on store shelves between bottles of oxidized sherry or on restaurant wine lists under the risky category of “other.”

But today, quality Spanish wines are emerging and quenching the world’s thirst for new and exciting wines.

Spain’s arrival as a worldclass producer didn’t happen overnight. In the past 20 years, as the global wine market developed, Spain modernized its wine industry and took aim at the export market.

At a recent tasting of Spanish wines, it was obvious that there are a great many styles and choices emerging from what was once primarily a domestic producer. Here are a few to explore.

THE VALUES

  • 2007 Vega Sindoa Viura-Chardonnay, Bodegas Nekeas, Spain (about $10 retail)
  • 2007 Paso a Paso Tinto, Bodegas Volver, Spain (about $13 retail)
  • 2007 Wrongo Dongo Jumilla, Spain (about $10 retail)
  • 2007 Garnacha del Fuego, Spain (about $10 retail)
  • 2006 Vega Sindoa Cabernet-Tempranillo, Spain (about $13 retail)

THE SPLURGES

  • 2006 Atteca Calatayud, Spain (about $17 retail)
  • 2007 Vina Godeval Valdeorras, Spain (about $16 retail)
  • 2006 Volver Tempranillo, Spain (about $20 retail)
  • 2007 Can Blau Montsant, Spain (about $18 retail)
  • 2005 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero, Spain (about $29 retail)
  • 2006 Altos de Luzon Jumilla, Spain (about $24 retail)